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When July 2024

Trip rating 5/5

When planning our family’s mini-sabbatical last year, we found ourselves staring at a map of Europe, searching for a destination that would offer both adventure and authenticity. Our eyes landed on Albania, a country we admittedly knew little about. But after looking up a few photos and videos, we thought, “Well, that looks nice.”

And so, with a spirit of curiosity, we booked it.

Bunkers and beyond: Albania’s fascinating history has shaped its character in unique ways. Much of it stems from the decades of isolation under the repressive regime of Enver Hoxha. Hoxha prepared the nation for a possible invasion by littering the landscape with military bunkers, estimated to number as many as 750,000.

These concrete domes, ranging from small pillboxes to large underground fortresses, are scattered throughout the picturesque countryside, serving as stark reminders of an era when Albania was one of the most isolated nations on Earth. The invasion never came, but the bunkers remain as a testament to Albania’s resilience and complex past. Visiting these bunkers provides a unique glimpse into the country’s turbulent history and the impact it has had on modern-day Albania.

Sun, sea and Sarandë: Discover Sarandë, a coastal gem not to be missed. Located in the southern part of the country, this bustling town offers a perfect blend of history, natural beauty and delicious cuisine.

We visited in July and were rewarded with spectacular beaches, crystal-clear waters and a laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere. The town’s waterfront promenade, Hasan Tahsini Boulevard, is lined with palm trees, cafés and restaurants offering fresh seafood, delicious Albanian wines and decadent desserts that showcase the best of the region’s culinary delights.

Experience the magic of xhiro: The evening ritual of strolling, or xhiro, captured our hearts and quickly became one of our favourite Albanian traditions. As dusk falls, entire cities empty onto their squares and promenades, filling the streets with people walking, chatting and enjoying each other’s company.

Families, friends and couples of all ages participate in this nightly social event, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere that is uniquely Albanian. Glasses clink, gelato is savoured, and the air hums with joy and connection. Participating in xhiro is a wonderful way to immerse yourself in the local culture, meet locals and experience the liveliness of the Albanian people.

Enjoy authentic Albania: Each Albanian town has its own distinct personality waiting to be discovered, and Korçë, Pogradec and Gjirokastër are hidden gems that showcase the country’s authentic charm. Korçë, known as the “Little Paris of Albania,” boasts a vibrant cultural scene, with numerous museums, galleries and festivals throughout the year. Lose yourself in the scenic walking promenades, lively cafés, and enticing restaurants serving traditional Albanian dishes such as lakror (savory pie) and qifqi (rice balls).

Just 45 minutes away, the picturesque town of Pogradec beckons with its refreshing lakeside allure. Located on the shores of Lake Ohrid, one of Europe’s deepest and oldest natural lakes, Pogradec offers stunning views, water sports and a relaxing atmosphere.

Further south, nestled in the Drino Valley, lies the enchanting town of Gjirokastër, known as the “City of Stone.” Its old town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, renowned for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture. The town’s cobblestone streets wind through a maze of stone houses with distinctive slate roofs, leading up to the imposing Gjirokastër Castle.

These three towns offer a glimpse into the authentic heart of Albania, each with its own unique history, culture and natural beauty waiting to be discovered.

Albania surprised us in the best possible way. It’s a country that’s still off the beaten path for many travellers, but that’s exactly what makes it so special. We found ourselves falling in love with a place we hardly knew existed. Albania may not be on your radar yet, but trust me — it deserves to be. Make sure you go before everyone else does!

Charles Achampong, Toronto

READERS’ TIPS

We’ve launched a new series that invites Star readers to share places they’ve visited recently and would recommend, whether it’s a weekend getaway in Elora, a Banff canoe trip, or a jaunt to Paris or Rome. If you’ve been, loved it and want to tell us about it, we’d like to hear from you.

Email us with “TRAVEL TIPS” in the subject line at travel@thestar.ca.

Please include brief responses to these questions. If your holiday experience is chosen, we’ll be in touch. 

1. Where did you go and when was it?

2. Where did you stay?

3. What was a highlight of your trip? Why?

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